To Buy Polarized or Not to Buy Polarized? That is the Question.

We’ve all heard friends tout their new sunglasses with “
and they’re polarized.” Or we may have done the touting ourselves (without even realizing what it means). As awesome as the benefits of polarized lenses are, they do perform a specific function – to diminish glare – which is good to keep in mind when you’re assessing your eyewear needs.

“A polarizing filter reduces glare from a shiny surface,” explains Julbo Product Guru Nick Yardley. “This makes it ideal for any form of water sport or driving, as it cuts reflections off oncoming car windshields, etc. They perform particularly well for fishermen. The polarized filter reduces the surface glare on water and allows an angler to see into the water and spot fish.”


The polarizing effect

Also keep in mind Guru Nick’s response to this question: When should you not use polarized lenses? “A polarized filter is not the best idea for mountaineers. By eliminating glare it makes it much harder to see subtle changes in a snow and ice surface, e.g., what is ice and what is snow. It is perhaps not the greatest driving glass in icy winter conditions, as makes it much harder to see ice on the road. For trail runners in the woods, a little distortion in depth perception can lead to greater likely hood of tripping.”


The Julbo Dirt


Popular Julbo frames for polarized lenses are the mountain-bike-friendly Dirt and the classic-aviator-style Chrono.


The Julbo Chrono


Julbo’s best-selling polarized lens is the Falcon, a photochromatic polarized lens that changes based on visible light and not on UV light, making it very useful for driving. “Windshields block UV light, so most photochromatic glasses (that change based on UV light) don’t work as advertised for driving,” states Nick.

In addition to this BWS (Behind the Windshield) feature of being sensitive to visible light, the Falcon has an anti-reflective coating that reduces eye strain and eliminates interference glare, as well as an oil-repellent coating to prevent finger or grease marks, thus making cleaning easier. Its copper color emphasizes contrast and enhances colors and vision is more comfortable overall, making the lens particularly sweet for driving.

Additional options for those wanting photochromatic and polarized lenses are the Octopus and the Camel. The Octopus’ water-shedding hydrophobic coating is ideal for water sports.

– By Christine Rasmussen

Julbo in the Media: Running Times

Running Times likes the Julbo Ultras with the Zebra lens for running the long haul.



To read more, click here.

Julbo supports French Nordic Team, World Biathlon Champ

What is the biathlon, besides the sport we catch glimpse of during the Winter Olympics and think, that looks crazy – who can do that? Athletes with stamina, strength and dexterity, that’s who.

The biathlon is a race in which competitors cross-country ski around a track and stop anywhere from two to four times to shoot really small targets with rifles. If they miss, extra distance is required or time is added.

For each shooting round, the biathlete must hit five targets at a range of 160 feet. When shooting in the prone position (kneeling), the target is 1.8 inches, and when shooting in standing position, it’s 4.5 inches. The rifles they carry weigh at least 7.7 pounds including ammo.

The sport originated as an exercise for Norwegian soldiers and debuted at the 1924 Olympic Winter Games under the name “military patrol.” After a few countries had trouble agreeing on the rules, the sport lost Olympic recognition until 1960; women were not allowed into Olympic biathlon until 1992.



The French Nordic skiing team, which Julbo now supports with its expansion into Nordic, happens to have a badass biathlete on its roster: Martin Fourcade. The 22-year-old is a three-time medalist of the 2011 World Championships across three different disciplines of the biathlon – gold in Pursuit, silver in Sprint and bronze in Mixed Relay.

Rossignol’s rising star, Martin achieved nine podiums in the 2010-2011 season, with of those three victories counting for the World Cup, thus finishing 3rd in the Overall standings. His first podium finish at a World Cup event was at the 2010 Winter Olympics, where he won silver in the Mass Start.





I wonder what this talented young Frenchie has up his sleeve for 2011-12. We may see him sporting Julbo’s new Nordic skiing visor, appropriately named "the Sniper.” Not quite goggle, not quite glasses, this distinctive model will give Nordic athletes the wide coverage they need to shield from wind and cold, without the mass or bulkiness of a goggle. No speed tears or overheating around the eyes – just a streamlined design to keep their target in focus. Available in the U.S. in October 2011.

Sources:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biathlon
http://www.rossignol.com/US/US/nordic-live.html

2011 Indo-American Saser Kangri II Expedition

Photo, Mark Richey

The Climb
“American Alpine Club President Steve Swenson, past club President Mark Richey, and Mountain Hardwear athlete Freddie Wilkinson have made the first ascent of Saser Kangri II, the second-highest unclimbed mountain in the world, 7,518 meters (24,665 ft.). The team began their ascent from an advance base camp at 5,800 meters on the South Shukpa Glacier on August 21st, summited on August 24th, and returned to ABC the next day, August 25th. Their five-day, continuous-push ascent and descent of the mountain's Southwest Face, without pre-established camps or fixed ropes, is one of history's highest first ascents to be accomplished in alpine style.” Freddie Wilkinson.


This photo is taken from our high point during my 2009 attempt on Saser Kangri II with Mark Wilford, Jim Lowther, and Steve Swenson. Although bad weather forced us down from only halfway up the face, the knowledge we gained during that expedition was critical to our success in 2011. Photo, Mark Richey


Swenson leading on day 2 in the Great Couloir on Saser Kangri II Photo, Freddie Wilkinson


Richey leading through the Ice Chimney on day 2, Saser Kangri II Photo, Steve Swenson


Camp 2
just barely, at ca 6,700 m on SKII. Note the blue nylon “Ice Hammocks” we used to shore up ice and snow and create a ledge just big enough for our tiny tent. Other than at Camp 1, which was quite low on the face, we found no ledges on the rest of the wall big enough for the tent. The 2 oz. Ice Hammocks custom made for us by Wild Things proved invaluable in preparing for our camps. Photo, Freddie Wilkinson


Wilkinson powers through the “Escape Hatch” on day 3, a key passage that unlocked the upper section of the climb and led to easier summit ice fields and the summit ridge. Photo, Steve Swenson


On the final summit ridge of Saser Kangri II. Note the triangular peak just left of the lower climber is Tsok Kangri which we had made the first ascent of earlier in the expedition. The big glacier to the right is the South Shukpa Kunchang where we had our advance base camp. We were the first climbers to ever explore these glaciers. Photo, Freddie Wilkinson


Mark Richey, Steve Swenson, and Freddie Wilkinson, summit of Saser Kangri II, August 24th, 2011. Photo, Freddie Wilkinson


Drama at the end!
Although the technical difficulties on the 1,700 meter face went smoothly, the team confronted an unexpected medical emergency when a sinus infection suffered by Swenson worsened into a serious respiratory problem just after reaching ABC. Steve’s condition was serious as he coughed up large, glue-like clumps of phlegm that would block his airway periodically, preventing him from breathing. We all feared for his life. Using our SAT phone we initiated a rescue effort through Global Rescue, the American Alpine Club, the American Embassy in Delhi, and Rimo Expeditions. In addition, my wife Teresa had just arrived in Leh and spent the entire day on the phone tirelessly urging the State Department, the Embassy, and everyone involved to cut through red tape and approve clearance for the Lama helicopters. The Indian Air Force alone has helicopters capable of landing and taking off at high altitudes. Without Teresa’s persistence we are sure we would have waited another full day for the chopper and that may have proved fatal for Steve. Finally at around 4 p.m., as worsening weather threatened to cancel the rescue, clouds lifted and two Lama Helicopters, flying low over the mountains, appeared above the South Shukpa Glacier. We heard the rotors first as we had taken shelter inside the tents. I remember waking an exhausted Swenson and announcing “your Limo is here!” Swenson was evacuated from ABC on August 26th to a hospital in Leh where he recovered quickly in a few days. Richey and Wilkinson remained on the glacier and cleared off our camp with our Sherpa staff, rejoining Swenson in Leh on August 30th.

“Hidden Jewel”
Despite the scare, the team is ecstatic about the quality of our adventure. "Saser Kangri II is a real hidden jewel of the Himalaya," says Wilkinson. "There aren't many unclimbed 7,000 plus meter peaks left anymore, and to make SKII's first ascent, climbing unsupported in alpine-style, is a once-in-a-career opportunity. I'm thankful to my partners Mark and Steve for sharing their Himalayan expertise. This kind of exploratory alpine adventure is sadly becoming a thing of the past."

Other First Ascents
Additionally, the team, which included Emilie Drinkwater, Kirstin Kramer, and Janet Bergman, made the first ascents of four other unclimbed 6,000 meter mountains in the region.


Above are three of the peaks we climbed collectively. Photo, Mark Richey


Tsok Kangri
Our route on Tsok Kangri was the best pure-ice climb I’ve done in the Karakorum or Himalaya. It
reminded me of the Black dike, a classic New England Ice Climb, only 4 to 5 times as long and finishing at over 22,000 ft.! We climbed it in one long 22-hour day.

Saserling and Pumo Kangri
Janet and Freddie’s route on Saserling was another classic climb, 8 pitches of stellar rock climbing with excellent rock quality and challenging climbing on every pitch. Pumo Kangri, which means “Ladies Mountain” in Ladakhi looked like a giant snow plod at first but turned out to be sustained low-angle ice for the entire climb. Emilie and Kirsten carried only one ice screw but nonetheless pushed on to the summit climbing mainly without belays. The descent however required rappelling and with only one screw to cut v-threads and belay the process took them all night! They arrived at ABC the next morning after a 29-hour continuous push, passing Janet and Freddie on their way up to climb Saserling!


Freddie Wilkinson leading perfect ice on the First ascent of Tsok Kangri. Photo, Mark Richey


Photo, Mark Richey Stegasaurus
We named this peak “Stegasaurus” since the line of rock towers leading up the ridge reminded us of the dinosaur. Although not a difficult climb technically, we had a lot of fun and it was great to do a climb altogether (only Steve was absent). Also, the return to ABC from our high camp made for the best skiing of the trip. You can see our fresh tracks in the foreground.

Indian team members
Our Indian members and BC staff were a big part of the expedition’s success and although none of them reached any summits we could not have done so without them. Not only did they take outstanding care of us in BC but they did all the heavy work of supplying our ABC with food and equipment. This effort required a climb over a 6,000 meter pass from BC and roughly 12 kilometers of glacier traverse to get to our ABC on the South Shukpa.

Chewang Motup, Co-leader
Raj Kumar, Liason Officer
Konchok Thinlese, Sirdar
Pemba Sherpa (aka King Kong), Climber
Dhan Singh Harkotia, Climber
Jangla Tashi Phunchok, Climber
Tshering Sherpa, Climber
Santabir Sherpa, Chief Cook
Arjun Rai, Cook’s helper
Aungchok, Cook’s helper
Mahipal, Kitchen Boy



Our Indian team at Base Camp performing the “Puja” ceremony. Photo, Mark Richey.

Steve and Freddie enjoying the last rays of light near the summit of Tsok Kangri Photo, Mark Richey

Expedition Summary –

First Ascent, Saser Kangri II, 7,518 meters via the Southwest Face, "The Old Breed". WI 4 M3, 1,700 meters. August 24th, 2011. Richey, Swenson, Wilkinson.

First ascent, Tsok Kangri, 6,585 meters via the north face, WI4+, 680 meters. July 31st, 2011. Richey, Swenson, Wilkinson.

First ascent, Pumo Kangri, 6,250 meters via West Face, WI3, 450 meters.
August 5th,2011. Drinkwater and Kremer.

First Ascent, SaserLing, 6,100 meters via the South Face. 5.9+, 8 pitches, 350 meters
August 6th, 2011. Bergman and Wilkinson.

First Ascent, Stegasaurus, 6,660 meters, via the south glacier to south ridge. Steep snow climbing and ridge traverse. August 9th, 2011. Bergman, Drinkwater, Kremer, Richey, and Wilkinson.


Finally, I’d like to extend big thanks to our equipment sponsors;

Mountain Hardwear
Wild Things
Black Diamond
Arcteryx
Cliffbar
Julbo

Many thanks to Rimo Expeditions, our outstanding agent in India that handled all our travel, permitting and logistics so seamlessly.

Thanks to the American Alpine club for their support and encouragement of our expedition.


And finally thanks to my wife Teresa, for being there always!



Mark Richey
September 8th, 2011
Newburyport, MA

Julbo USA’s UTMB Race Report

From the perspective of two Julbo USA PR gals who felt incredibly fortunate to be
included in the UTMB festivities and hosted by Julbo France, one of the sponsors of the
event.

Ultra athletes test the true limits of what humankind is capable of enduring.

In the heart of the European Alps stands the tall and beautiful Mont Blanc,
challenging the depth and capabilities of the world’s most elite and burly endurance
athletes- the competitors of the Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc.



“Mont Blanc,” “Monte Bianco,” or “White Mountain” peaks out at 4,810 meters high
(15,782 feet) and spreads wide across the borders of Italy, France, and Switzerland.
It is the highest mountain in the Alps and in the European Union. Located at the
foot of the French Mont Blanc side lays the world-class, outdoor-mecca famously
known as Chamonix. Every season the streets and outdoor backyard playground
of Chamonix bustles with climbers, skiers, cyclists and alpine mountaineers from
around the globe. However, at the end of every August, it is all about the UTMB.

The weekend race event brings in over 2,300 qualified racers from over 50
countries to the start line and over 5,000 spectators and volunteers.

If possible, imagine all the hours of training, miles ran, shoes replaced, GU packs
consumed, mental preparation and nerve it takes to line up at the start line of the
rigorous 105 mile-long UTMB course.

On top of all the anticipation about the distance, 30,000 ft elevation change and
running for 20-30+ hours, the 2011 racers were faced with horrendous, rainy
weather. The storm forced race officials to postpone the start of the race. Instead of
starting at 6 p.m., the passing storm and potential landslides led the stressed race
director to make the final call to delay the start of the race until 11:30 p.m.

Five and a half more hours for the runners to wait out the rain and keep the nervous
butterflies at bay.

The rain never let up, but the determined athletes headed to the start while their
supportive fans lined the course along the wet streets of Chamonix. The jittery sea
of lean, muscular runners illuminated the stormy sky with thousands of bobbing
headlamps. With the start of a gun that echoed around Mont Blanc, the racers darted
off through the Alps in the rain, mud and soon to be snow.



The dedicated fans followed the pack by driving up to the next village, echoing
their enthusiasm and support to the small mountain villages between them and
tomorrow’s daylight.

All the next day, fans raced around the unruly Mont Blanc, across three borders, to
greet and support their runners. Checkpoints are strategically placed to provide the
racers with a refuge for rest, water, salty soup and a quick sugar intake provided by
the one and only Coca-Cola soft drink.



The leaders took off, and the gap grew between the elite racers and the other
runners. Much room for error existed from the dangers of injury, misfortunate steps
to unthinkable pain. However, the leaders remained in a fairly consistent and close
pack making for a very exciting finish.



First place went to 23-year-old Spanish trail running prodigy, Killian Jornet, clocking
in at 20 hours and 36 minutes. Killian’s Spanish teammate, Iker Carrera, secured
the second place finish at 20 hours and 45 minutes, while Julbo athlete, Sebastien
Chaigneau, rounded out the podium with a third place finish in 20 hours and 55
minutes. The unstoppable Lizzy Hawker of the UK surpassed all female competition
with an outstanding 25 hour and two minute first place finish. Read more about
the race and results here: http://www.irunfar.com/2011/08/2011-the-north-face-
ultra-trail-du-mont-blanc-results-report.html.



Meanwhile back on the trail, as night was falling so were some of the runners.
Many racers made the decision to stop due to the cold weather and unforgiving
conditions. For an endurance athlete who repeatedly pushes his or her limits to
the maximum, it takes even more courage and strength to listen to their bodies and
know when to stop. This year’s UTMB has one of the highest dropout rates to date
due to the fast lead out pace and the squally conditions.



One might think the top finishers of the UTMB are adequately compensated with
grand prize checks for running across the Alps, in the snow, during the night for
more than 100 miles, without stopping. Try again. Instead, Killian was presented
with a North Face Polartec Fleece Vest, not saying this is not a nice prize, but it’s no
golf pro tournament prize money.



Julbo France employees explained that the victory is not about the money, but
rather the priceless glory. The legendary Tour de France has lost some of its
authenticity to doping, money, and expensive equipment, and as a result, the sport
of trail running wants to remain pure and simple. It is a true test to the limits of
humankind.




Every year the weather is different, the competition stronger, and the fans more
dedicated making this Julbo-supported event something no one should miss --
whether it be with a racing bib, or a with a cowbell.

For a visual, multi-media experience check out this video produced by title sponsors, The North Face:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TFWDUsvLCoE&feature=share

Winter Will Arrive Before We Know It Julbo Goggle Lineup For Fall 2011

For some, fall is the season for hunting, outdoor photography and wood chopping. For powder hounds like me, it’s the season during which I prep for winter. I take stock of my gear to make sure I won’t be stuck with something that is too worn-out, packed-out or just plain out. Are you goggle shopping for this winter? Here is a run-down of the Julbo goggle lineup, with some exciting new stuff coming available this fall:

$160 - $200
This season Julbo is offering four sweet models that come with the Zebra lens, including a new model for fall 2011. Why does Zebra lens technology rule? Because having one pair goggles that can work in varied light conditions is better than having two pairs of goggles/lenses and having to play the changeover game – especially if the snow is good! (No stops on a powder day!) The photochromatic capabilities of the allow it to change from Category 2 protection (low-light) to Category 4 (bright sunlight) in under 30 seconds. The anti-fog coating is also key when hiking or touring in snow. With kudos from magazines such as Outside and Ski, the Zebra lens is offered in the Revolution, the sleek and stylish Eclipse, the over-the-glasses version of the Revolution, and the Orbiter – a new style making its debut this fall. The Revolution and Orbiter are also available with the Camel, lenses that have photochromatic and polarizing superpowers. Also new for this season is the Glenak, designed by Julbo team members Glen Plake and Enak Gavaggio. Available with the Camel lens, the Glenak strap has lighthearted graphics representing each culture: a hamburger and Statue of Liberty on Plake’s side of the strap, and French fries and the Eiffel Tower on Gavaggio’s side.


Glenak

$90 to $110
New for fall 2011, the Down offers wide-angle vision with its design and a variety of multi-layered finishes to choose from. These sharp-looking goggles offer Category 3 protection (for clear, sunny days) and are available in an over-the glasses (OTG) version as well. You get more bang for your buck with the versatile new Bang, designed to adjust to all kinds of face shapes and helmets. Double-cylindrical lenses finished in silver flash provide broad vision on sunny days. The Superstar provides Category 3 protection as well and comes in myriad bright colors to complement your style. An extended outrigger and ad strap ensure helmet compatibility with a variety of models. The Cassiopee women’s goggle has a sleek design that reminds me of the Eclipse. Choose between a silver flash finish or multilayer blue finish in Category 3 lenses. Available in an OTG model as well, the Around Excel also come with double lenses to prevent fogging and a flash finish to eliminate glare. Category 3 protection, or Category 4 on the Darth Vader-looking Black Vision model.


Down

$40 to $60
Designed for larger faces (read: big heads) the Apollo offers two lens options: Category 3 and Category 2 for cloudier days. Its counterpart, the Orion – designed for smaller faces – is available in the same two lens options. Your kids can get their stoke on with the Astro, designed for rippers ages 6 to 10. These are mini replicas of the adult designs, meaning they have the same technical features that kids need too – flash finish for glare elimination, double lenses to help prevent fogging. Numerous lens choices ensure you get just what Junior needs without paying for what he doesn’t.


Orion

~By Christine Rasmussen

Adventure in the NW Fork of the Lacuna Glacier

“..adventure – in the grand old manner – is obsolete, having been either exalted to a specialists job or degraded to a stunt”
-Peter Flemming, Brazilian Adventure (1933)

Flemming's book is about the exploration of the Amazonian interior in the 1920's. It is a story about getting lost in the wilds of the world, exploring what was then a large blank spot on the map. I first read this quote when I was twenty years old, while pinned down on the weather stricken west coast of New Zealand. I took the word 'specialist' to refer to 'climbers', and took pride in being one of those who might be able to participate in adventure 'in the grand old manner'. I was in the process of cutting my teeth amongst the steep ice and rock of the Southern Alps and chasing dreams that I hoped would one day lead me to the greater ranges. This exploration of the unknown was the drawcard. This was the reason for my dreams and for my planned progressions into the big mountains.

Five years later, a relativity short amount of time by many accounts, including graduation from University, seven expeditions, and seemingly countless months on the road, had put me in a different realm of thinking about the world and the mountains. I had found that many of the far away places were in fact well known, that the discovery of the new areas was an opportunity to be relished and sought but was not always easy to find. So I continued the progression on routes new and old, always with a keen ear to the ground for these lands unknown

In the winter of 2010 my good friend and climbing partner Mark Allen called me about a photo he had come across of a glacier in Alaska of which we had never heard. We determined that it was possibly accessible with skis from the epicenter of Kahiltna Basecamp and by all accounts unknown. With a bit of work, photos lined up to maps, together showing steep terrain and big relief, our excitement built. We planned for the Alaska range in the spring.

In the lower 48 Mark and I trained and watched as winter loosened its grip for the year and we prepared for another trip into the big mountains. Between us, we had taken more than a dozen expeditions into the Alaskan Range and because of this the process of getting into the mountains felt routine. Before long we were on the glacier with our heavy rations of pork product, quesadillas, and whiskey

Our goal was to access the Northwest Fork of the Lacuna Glacier, a small area located between the Yetna and the massive bulk of Mt Foraker. We knew that some of the peaks had been climbed from the opposite (Yetna) side by our friends from New Hampshire during previous seasons, but we had found no evidence that anyone had climbed from the Lacuna (east) side. So we set our sights to cross under the South Face of Foraker and wander into the unknowns beyond.

It took us four days to reach the NW Fork on our first trip. Two areas on the map that looked to be low angle and no big deal turned out to be heavily crevassed icefalls surrounded by loaded slopes. With patience and persistence we eventually reached our goal having traveled a total of 27 kilometers from Kahiltna. And while it might not have been remote compared with the old timers who walked into the range, we both felt as though we might as well have been on the moon.

Entering the NW Fork was magnificent as we were greeted by the massive Southern and Eastern features of unclimbed peak 12,213 with it's series of aesthetic buttresses pouring down at steep angles towards us. To find an untouched zone, and within it such a peak, was a combination of intimidation and dream come true.


"Graham and Mark coined peak 12,213 “Voyager Peak” after the Voyager Satellite that launched in 1977 that is still exploring deep space. "

We immediately set up a camp at it's base and the next evening started an attempt on one of the buttresses on the right side of it's South Face. Excellent mixed climbing led to desperate and terrifying ridge climbing. Moving slower than expected we made it through the worst and reached the broader ridge above, where we spent a comfortable night on a well protected and almost big enough perch. The next day, on the ridge to the summit, what we had anticipated to be easy climbing was in fact deep, faceted, dangerous snow on steep aspects. With three weeks left in the range we bailed, with the intention of letting the mountain cure, in order to make the transition out of the dangerous winter snowpack into the safer and faster spring conditions we needed.


So we returned to Kahiltina; to the pork, the whiskey, and the people. To fill our time we climbed the West Ridge of Hunter, a classic in the true sense of the word. While not on route we caught up on podcasts, watched Lord Of The Rings, shot a thug life video, and waited.
Within a week the conditions had improved and it was time to return. This time the ski to the Lacuna took us two days and we felt much more comfortable with our setting. The longer steeper buttresses in the middle of the face seemed to offer more technical climbing with less scary ridges and we happily opted for this option.

Starting the next evening we embarked onto some of best mixed climbing I have experienced anywhere: wild exposure and aesthetic steep technical climbing with a few bits and pieces that I wouldn't wish on anyone. The cornices and ridge climbing were also still very much present and accounted for, but we made it back to the summit ridge without too many dramas. Upon reaching the ridge we were forced to look out with distain on the large black clouds close at hand. The remoteness and the high consequences of heavy snowfall on our descent had us turned around and back on the glacier a few hours later, watching the clouds swirl on the peak above.


"Starting the next evening we embarked onto some of best mixed climbing I have experienced anywhere"

The next morning we found ourselves near the end of our trip, two days from base camp, with dwindling food and clearing skies. As we lounged, awake in the sun-warmed tent, resting from the 26 hour push the day before, we independently considered the proposition of heading back up on the mountain. By the time we finally started the conversation it was already clear that we were going to stay in Lacuna a little longer.
Slowly we packed, ate our meager rations, and continued to rest. Essentially we were to use our food for getting back to Kahiltina for one last attempt on 12,213 and therefore would ski back without food. We both knew we could do it. We both also knew that it would hurt. But subtle glimpses of magic are always afoot and we found in the bottom of a bag two packets of instant coffee which to two fellas from Western Washington might as well have been gold. With bags packed and the face out of the heat of the day, we slugged down lukewarm strong coffee and felt the power surge back into our bodies.

Six hours later we were standing on top of 12,213, having climbed a direct coulior on the South Face, an easier but more threatened 4,500ft line that we were able to simul-climb in two super long pitches. The climbing consisted of brilliant steep neve with the odd moderate mixed move, and fantastic fast terrain. On top we were able to look down over the Yetna and into the wide open tundra beyond. The ski back was no longer a concern, simply a matter of continuing the perseverance and good decision making a little while longer. We had achieved our goal of climbing a new mountain and had an adventure 'in the grand old manner,' just as I had dreamed of so many years before.


Graham and Mark coined peak 12,213 “Voyager Peak” after the Voyager Satellite that launched in 1977 that is still exploring deep space.

While in the Alaska Range, they used the Run sunglasses with photochromic lenses which were perfectly designed for the wide range of light conditions experienced while in the range.

They would like to offer huge thanks to those who helped make this trip happen: The New Zealand Alpine Club, The Mount Everest Foundation, and Outdoor Research, with additional support from Julbo USA, Cascade Designs, and Feathered Friends.